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Geisi Polow

Apricots have a particular affinity with lamb. The early Arab Abbasid dynasty, centered in Baghdad, adopted the combination from the old Persian Empire that preceded it and created a series of dishes on the theme which they called mishmishiya (see page 255), mishmish being the Arab word for ā€œapricot.ā€ Apricot is still a favorite partner to lamb in modern Iran. The rest of the Middle East has adopted it to a lesser degree. You need a tart, natural variety of apricots, not a sweetened one.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 6

Ingredients

2 cups basmati rice
6 tablespoons melted butter or vegetable oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 pound lean lamb, cut into small cubes
Salt and pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon allspice
3/4–1 cup tart dried apricots, cut in half
2 tablespoons black or golden raisins

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Wash the rice in warm water and rinse in a colander under the cold water tap.

    Step 2

    Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter or oil in a pan and fry the onion until golden. Add the meat and sautĆ© gently, turning the pieces to brown them all over. Add salt and pepper, cinnamon, allspice, apricots, and raisins. Cover with water and simmer, covered, over low heat for 1–1Ā 1/2 hours, until the meat is very tender and has absorbed the sweet-and-acid flavors of the fruit, adding water as required. Reduce the liquid at the end.

    Step 3

    Boil the rice in a large (9–10-inch), heavy-bottomed, preferably nonstick pan for about 10 minutes, until still a little underdone. Then drain, and mix with 2 tablespoons butter or oil.

    Step 4

    Pour the remaining butter or oil in the bottom of the pan and mix in a ladle of rice. Arrange alternate layers of rice and meat with apricot sauce, starting and ending with a layer of rice. Cover and steam gently over very low heat for 20–30 minutes, until the rice is tender. A cloth stretched underneath the lid will absorb the steam and make the rice fluffier.

    Step 5

    For serving, see box on page 351.

  2. Variations

    Step 6

    You may use 4 boned and skinned portions of chicken, cut into small pieces, instead of meat. They will need only about 20 minutes’ cooking before being added to the rice.

    Step 7

    Boil the apricots and raisins separately, in water to cover, for 10 minutes. And arrange them in a layer on top of the meat.

    Step 8

    Add 1/4 teaspoon good-quality saffron powder or crushed threads to the melted butter before you mix it into the rice.

Cover of Claudia Roden's The New Book of Middle Easter Food, featuring a blue filigree bowl filled with Meyer lemons and sprigs of mint.
Reprinted with permission from The New Book of Middle Eastern Food, copyright Ā© 2000 by Claudia Roden, published by Knopf. Buy the full book on Amazon or Bookshop.
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