Just as there isāsorry, wasāonly one Brangelina, so only one cheese can be called Parmigiano-Reggiano.
It is Il Grande Formaggio, the King of Cheeses (actual nickname). Its rind alone is an umami-laden talisman, yielding soups and stews richer and deeper than you thought possible.
But there are others in this family of hard Italian cheeses that are more than respectable in their own right, not quite as pricey, and usually parked right next to the Parmigiano-Reggiano and the Parmesan (two different things) at the grocery store.
On the other end, like way on the end, is the white stuff in the green can. Letās explore them all.
You might say "Parmesan" and think of the real-deal Italian cheese, but what's labeled "Parmesan" or even "Parmigiano" in U.S. stores can be any cowās milk cheese with a āhard and brittle rindā and āgranular textureā that āgrates readily," the FDA says. In other words: it's not necessarily real Parmigiano-Reggiano from Italy.
Under FDA rules, Parmesan doesn't even have to be made from fresh whole milk. Reconstituted dry milk, skim milk, and/or cream also can be used. Bleaching the milk is allowed, too.
As for whatās in the can labeled ā100% Grated Parmesan Cheeseā? Also not real Parmigiano-Reggiano and, according to a memorably headlined Bloomberg report, not even 100 percent cheese at allāmore like 91 percent; the rest is anti-clumping agents and other additives.
Parmigiano-Reggiano is a cow's milk cheese, too, but that's where the similarities end.
Parmigiano-Reggiano has Protected Designation of Origin status; Denominazione di Origine Protetta or DOP, in Italian. Grana Padano and Pecorino Romano, the two other popular Italian hard cheeses, do as well.
Itās an earned label, rigorously monitored by the European Union. If the cheese isnāt made in its designated area according to PDO standards, it canāt bear the name āParmigiano-Reggiano,ā āGrana Padanoā, or āPecorino Romano.ā
If it does pass muster by inspectors, it gets its name, production date, and DOP seal stamped on the rind. Thatās how you know itās legit.
Itās made only in two Northern Italian regions, in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Bologna, and Mantova.
It must be aged for a minimum of one year, but that can and usually does stretch to ā18, 24, 36 months,ā says Dino Borri, director of purchasing for Eataly USA.
The time of year, length of aging, and each producerās method all add to the cheese's unrivaled flavor and rich, granular texture. But as the late Marcella Hazan wrote in her book, Ingredienti: āIn reality, Parmigiano produced at any time of the year is a superior hard cheese both for table use and for grating.ā
This cowās milk cheese has a much larger production area than Parmigiano-Reggiano, encompassing five regions in Northern Italy. Its minimum aging requirement is 9 months.
As a result, it has a āless concentrated,ā slightly sweeter flavor, and itās less expensive, says Borri.
That not to say itās inferior; indeed, itās the top-selling DOP cheese in the world.
Sure, a cheese connoisseur can tell Grano Padano apart from Parmigiano-Reggiano in a taste test, but, says Borri, āFor a normal customer, the difference is not so huge."
You canāt really compare. Itās a different animalāmade from sheepās, not cowās, milk, and aged between 5 and 8 months.
But if you had to compare, Pecorino Romano comes off as stronger and a bit saltier than Parmigiano-Reggiano. Thatās because sheepās milk is inherently stronger-tasting, says Borri.
Pecorino Romano is made in Sardinia; the central Italian region of Lazio (where Rome is); and Grossetto, a Tuscan province.
Not at all. What's labeled āRomano" can be made with cowās, sheepās, or goatās milk, or a mix of milks, the FDA says.
Once a wheel is cut, it starts to lose moisture, so itās best to avoid buying these hard Italian cheeses already cut, shredded, or grated.
Ideally, youāll want to buy from a cheese shop or cheesemonger who can cut what you want and wrap it in special cheese paper.
At the grocery store, it never hurts to ask at the cheese counter if they'll cut you a fresh portion of cheese.
Most likely, youāll have to choose from pre-cut, plastic-wrapped wedges. In that case, Borri suggests asking how recently the cheese was cut.
And check out the cut wheel, which is usually on display as well. Youāll be able to see the rind, stamped with the names and seals for Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana Padano, and Pecorino Romano, but you should also look at the surface of the cheese next to the rind. It should look ādewy,ā according to Hazan in Ingredienti. If it's chalky, it probably wasnāt stored properly and is drying out.
Also, donāt overbuy.
At home, get that wedge out of plastic and rewrap it, either in cheese paper if youāve got it, or wax or parchment paper followed by a fresh layer of plastic. Or try Borriās preferred way: unwrapped, in an airtight container.
Tucked away in a humid spot in your fridge, i.e. the crisper drawer, it should last for weeks, even up to three months.
Why wait that long to eat such good cheese, though? Open it and enjoy it within one to two weeks. And by all means, save and use the rinds. āThese cheeses were made for zero waste," Borri says.
