Loin of Veal with Shiitake Stuffing

Preparation

1. Make the stuffing:

   Step 1

   Cut the stems from the shiitake, discarding them, and chop the shiitake fine. (There should be about 1 cup packed finely chopped shiitake). Strain the reserved liquid through a fine sieve to remove any grit and reserve it for the sauce. In a large skillet cook the shallots in the oil over moderately low heat, stirring, until they are softened, stir in the celery, the carrot, and the garlic, and cook the mixture, stirring, until the vegetables are softened. Stir in the rosemary, the sage, the marjoram, the thyme, the parsley, and the Cognac and cook the mixture, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the lemon juice, the broth, the white mushrooms, and the chopped shiitake and cook the mixture, its surface covered with a round of buttered wax paper, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender. Boil the mixture, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is evaporated. Stir in the cream and the bread crumbs, season the mixture with salt and pepper, and cook it over moderate heat, stirring, until it is thickened. Let the stuffing cool. The stuffing may be made 1 day in advance, kept covered and chilled, and brought to room temperature before the veal is stuffed.

2. Step 2

   Using the handle of a wooden spoon, pack the stuffing into the veal a little at a time (there will be room, if the loin is tied loosely enough). Transfer the veal to a roasting pan just large enough to hold it and add 1 cup of the stock. Cover the veal with the fatback and roast it in the middle of a preheated 325°F. oven, basting it every 20 minutes with the pan juices, for 1 hour. Remove the fatback and roast the veal for 45 minutes to 1 hour more, or until it registers 150°F. on a meat thermometer. Transfer the veal to a cutting board and let it stand for 15 minutes.

   Step 3

   While the veal is standing, skim the fat from the pan juices, add the remaining 1/2 cup stock, and deglaze the pan over high heat, scraping up the brown bits, until the mixture is reduced by half. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve set over a saucepan, bring it to a boil with the reserved shiitake liquid, whisking, and simmer the mixture for 5 minutes, or until it is thickened slightly. Season the sauce with salt and the white pepper. In a skillet sauté the shiitake in the oil over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until they are heated through. Cut the veal into 16 slices, arrange 2 slices on each plate, and garnish each serving with 2 of the sautéed shiitake and some of the thyme sprigs.