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Spaghetti with Garlic, Chile, and Sea Urchin

Creamy, rich sea urchin roe—better known by sushi lovers as “uni”—makes one of the most extraordinary sauces for pasta that I know, exotic Italian comfort food. We serve different versions in the restaurants, but this is my favorite because it keeps the roe intact. The heat of the pasta “cooks” the roe and each sac is broken only by your fork, allowing you to control the richness of each bite. If you do not have access to live sea urchin, make sure the roe you buy is brightly colored and smells like the sea. For the very best flavor and texture, seek out small-production, artisanal pasta, available in Italian import shops and food stores.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 4

Ingredients

Kosher salt
2 live sea urchins, or 4 ounces sea urchin roe
1 pound dried linguine
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon chile flakes
1 bunch Italian parsley, leaves removed from stems and finely chopped

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Set a pot of water to boil over high heat. Add a small handful of salt.

    Step 2

    If using live sea urchin, hold a sea urchin in one hand, protecting it with a kitchen towel. Using utility shears, cut the top off the sea urchin and discard. Rinse the inside of the urchin gently with cool water. Using a spoon, scoop out each of the five yellow sacs inside, placing them in a bowl of water as you remove them. Repeat with the second sea urchin. Gently swish the sacs in the water to remove any blood, then gently remove and set to dry on paper towels.

    Step 3

    When the water has come to a rolling boil, add the pasta and stir to separate. Cook until slightly firmer than al dente, about 10 minutes, or 1 minute less than the package directions.

    Step 4

    In a sauté pan over medium heat, warm the olive oil with the garlic and chile flakes for 2 to 3 minutes, until the garlic softens but does not color. When the pasta is cooked, drain well, then add to the sauté pan and toss. Increase the heat to medium-high, add the sea urchins, and toss gently, trying to keep the sacs as intact as possible. Add the parsley and toss again gently. Divide among 4 deep bowls and serve immediately.

Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen
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